There are two basic types of pearls: natural pearls, which form inside a mollusk without human help, and cultured pearls, which form after a person places an irritant inside the mollusk. Almost all pearls sold today are cultured, and they come in four main types: Akoya, freshwater, South Sea and Tahitian.
Keshi and baroque are not separate species. Keshi describes how a pearl formed, and baroque describes its shape. Here is how every type compares, plus how to read a pearl label before you buy.
Natural vs Cultured Pearls
Natural pearls form in the mantle tissue of certain mollusks, usually around a microscopic irritant, and always without human help, according to GIA. Cultured pearls start when a technician inserts a shell bead with a small piece of mantle tissue, or mantle tissue alone, into a host mollusk, which then coats the implant in nacre.
GIA's pearl timeline dates the first successfully cultured pearl to 1893, when Kokichi Mikimoto produced one in Japan. Before culturing, every pearl was natural and rare: GIA records that in 1917 Pierre Cartier traded a double strand of natural pearls for a mansion on Fifth Avenue in New York City (GIA).
Both facts come from the GIA pearl guide. Culturing turned pearls from a rarity into jewelry that most people can buy.
The 4 Main Types of Cultured Pearls Compared
The four main types of cultured pearls differ by mollusk, water, size and color. Three are saltwater pearls (Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian), and one grows in freshwater lakes and ponds.
| Pearl type | Water | Mollusk | Typical size | Typical colors | Main sources |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Akoya | Saltwater | Pinctada fucata (martensii) | Typically under 9 mm | White or cream, often with pink overtone | Japan, China |
| Freshwater | Freshwater | Freshwater mussels | Wide range of sizes | Pastels, mainly pinks and oranges, plus white | China (leading producer) |
| South Sea | Saltwater | Pinctada maxima | Typically 8 to 18 mm | White, silver, golden | Australia, Indonesia, Philippines, Myanmar |
| Tahitian | Saltwater | Pinctada margaritifera | Typically 8 to 14 mm | Dark: gray, black, brown, most often greenish gray | French Polynesia |
Data comes from the GIA pearl description and the GIA FAQ on cultured pearl types.
Akoya pearls
Akoya pearls are the small, round, white pearls most people picture first. GIA describes them as usually round and white or cream with a pink overtone and high luster, and they are the classic choice for a single strand necklace.
Freshwater pearls
Freshwater pearls are the most commonly produced type, and GIA notes they are popular for their affordability. They grow in lakes and ponds, mostly in China, and come in many shapes and soft pastel colors, with some showing multicolor or metallic looks.
South Sea pearls
South Sea pearls are the largest cultured pearls. They grow in the gold lipped or silver lipped Pinctada maxima oyster, and GIA links their thick nacre to long growth periods. Yellow shades are called "golden" in the trade.
Tahitian pearls
Tahitian pearls are often called black pearls, but GIA notes they come in a wide range of dark, cool colors, most commonly greenish gray. GIA lists blue, green, purple or pink overtones over that dark bodycolor.
What Are Keshi Pearls?
Keshi pearls are small, solid nacre pearls that form by accident during pearl culturing. They are a by-product of the process rather than a separate pearl species.
The CIBJO Pearl Book defines a keshi cultured pearl as a non-beaded cultured pearl formed accidentally or intentionally by human intervention in marine pearl oysters such as the Akoya, Pinctada maxima and black lipped oysters. CIBJO calls keshi a by-product of the culturing process and says the word keshi should always be qualified as natural or cultured (CIBJO, 2024).
Read the definitions in the CIBJO Pearl Book. Because keshi pearls have no bead inside, they tend toward irregular, baroque shapes with strong luster, which is why designers love them for organic looking jewelry.
Pearl Shapes: Round, Baroque and Everything Between
Pearl shape is a quality factor, not a pearl type. GIA groups pearls into seven basic shapes: round, near round, button, drop, oval, semi baroque and baroque.
Round pearls are the rarest. GIA calls round the most difficult shape to culture, which makes it the rarest cultured pearl shape. Baroque pearls are the opposite: CIBJO defines baroque as an irregularly shaped natural or cultured pearl, from a French word for objects that are not symmetrical.
Baroque pearls have become a modern favorite because no two match. They suit layered necklaces and single drop earrings, where a little irregularity looks intentional.
What Makes One Type of Pearl More Valuable?
Pearl value depends on quality, not just type. A fine freshwater pearl can outshine a poor saltwater pearl.
GIA grades pearls with seven value factors: size, shape, color, luster, surface quality, nacre quality and matching. GIA says luster might be the most important of the seven, and that larger pearls are rarer and more valuable than smaller ones when other factors are equal, so a bigger, brighter pearl beats a smaller, duller pearl of the same type (GIA).
See the full GIA pearl quality factors. A dull or chalky look, or a bead visible under the surface, usually means thin nacre, according to GIA.
How to Read a Pearl Label
Pearl labels follow trade rules, and the exact words tell you what you are buying. The CIBJO Pearl Book sets the international standard.
| Label says | What it means under CIBJO nomenclature |
|---|---|
| Natural pearl | Formed without human intervention; CIBJO recommends this full term |
| Pearl (no qualifier) | Strictly refers only to a natural pearl in the trade |
| Cultured pearl | Formed with human intervention; the word "cultured" is required |
| Imitation pearl | A man-made bead that copies the look of a pearl; the word "imitation" is required |
| Keshi cultured pearl | A non-beaded cultured by-product, per CIBJO |
Imitations are common and are not a problem as long as they are labeled. GIA has documented imitations made from glass beads coated with a pearly finish and "shell pearls" made from a coated shell bead. Ask the seller what a pearl is, and check product pages for the exact wording. Read more about pearl as a birthstone in our June birthstone guide.
How to Care for Every Type of Pearl
All pearl types need gentle care. GIA ranks pearl at 2.5 to 3 on the Mohs scale, which makes it soft and easy to scratch.
- Wipe pearls with a soft, clean cloth after each wear.
- Put pearls on last, after perfume, hair spray and makeup. GIA warns that chemicals, acids, cosmetics and even perspiration can damage them.
- Never use ultrasonic or steam cleaners. Warm, soapy water is fine for an occasional clean, and strung pearls should dry fully before wearing.
- Store pearls apart from harder gems and metal pieces.
These tips come from GIA's pearl care guide. For the metal settings, see our guides to caring for gold plated jewelry and cleaning silver jewelry.
Pearls work with everyday outfits as easily as with formal ones. Small round studs suit daily wear, while baroque drops and mixed shapes feel more modern.
Explore pearl styles in pearl earrings, pearl necklaces and pearl bracelets, or try a piece like the Midnight Pearl Earrings. Each product page describes the materials used. Choosing a pendant? The necklace length guide helps you find where a pearl should sit.
Frequently Asked Questions About Types of Pearls
What type of pearls are the most expensive?
Fine natural pearls are generally the most valuable, because they form without human help and are now rare. Among cultured pearls, large, round South Sea pearls with bright luster usually sit at the top, since GIA says larger pearls are rarer when other factors are equal and South Sea pearls typically measure 8 to 18 mm. Value always depends on all seven GIA factors, so a poor South Sea pearl can be worth less than a fine Akoya.
How many types of pearls are there?
There are two origins, natural and cultured, and four main types of cultured pearls: Akoya, freshwater, South Sea and Tahitian. Lists that show 9 or more types usually add shapes such as baroque, formation terms such as keshi, or colors such as golden and black. Those are useful labels, but they describe a shape, a growth process or a color, not a separate kind of pearl.
What is the difference between freshwater and saltwater pearls?
Freshwater pearls grow in mussels in lakes and ponds, mostly in China, while saltwater pearls grow in oysters in the sea. Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearls are the 3 main saltwater types. GIA notes that freshwater pearls are the most commonly produced type and are popular for their affordability, and they come in a wide range of shapes and pastel colors. Saltwater types are known for classic round shapes and, in South Sea pearls, large sizes.
Are baroque pearls real pearls?
Yes. Baroque describes shape, not authenticity. The CIBJO Pearl Book defines a baroque pearl as an irregularly shaped natural or cultured pearl, and GIA lists baroque as one of the 7 basic pearl shapes. Keshi pearls, which CIBJO describes as essentially baroque in shape, are a common example. An imitation can also be made in a baroque shape, so always check how the seller labels it.
What color pearls are the rarest?
Natural color is what counts. GIA lists pearl bodycolors such as white, cream, black, gray and silver, with overtones of pink, green, purple or blue. Tahitian pearls are the main source of naturally dark pearls, and golden tones come mainly from South Sea pearls. Some pearls are dyed, and GIA has documented dyed freshwater cultured pearls made to imitate golden South Sea pearls, so ask whether a color is natural or treated.
Find a pearl look you love in the EVRY pearl collection.
